The wheelie great team

Jason’s bike:

Valley of the moon.

Valley of the moon.

Jason’s weapon of choice is a 2008 BMW F800GS. As there’s no such thing as the perfect bike for overland travel, he opted for this bike because it’s the bike of his heart.

The first thing to say about this bike is reaping a weight benefit. It’s a fair bit lighter than the BMW R1200GSA, particularly noticeable in the bends with a lively engine and a top speed on par with the R1200GSA, is loads of fun.

The two complaints he has with the bike are the iron hard seat and the beyond useless screen.  The bike already had a custom belly pan, a set of heavy duty engine bars when he bought it, so saved a few quid there, but needed to do something about the screen and the seat.

Jase settled for an Airhawk, which is essentially an inflated air cushion that sits atop of the seat, tantamount to twice the distance before his backside goes to sleep. The problem with the screen was solved with a Touratech fairing–not cheap but does a great job of protecting him from most of the wind. He also thinks it looks the business.  The bike has also been fitted with a set of Metalmule panniers, made from 2mm thick aluminum although since replaced for lighter Adventure Spec Magadan MK2 soft saddle bags.

Mr Jangles (Oct 2016 to date):


The cat that got the cream.

Oh Pearl, my beloved Pearl.  She executed the ride from the bottom of the planet to the top, beautifully: from Ushuaia, the southernmost tip of Argentina to Prudhoe Bay, Alaska, having run out of road going north. All 50,000 miles of it through 21 countries over the last 2.5 years. At 15 years of age, she rarely missed a beat, remained happy to be nurse maided on occasion and threw her all into getting me to let go.

In fact, I knew more by feel and sixth sense than by appearance, Pearl imparted to the dirt road itself a sense of sureness and a generosity of spirit. She exuded poise as much as purpose that took me in, urging to keep her steady on the trails. And often times, would save me from myself!

That said–knowing Pearl has dug deep into my heart–there comes a time when you take stock, size things up and arrive at an unequivocal decision. Journey past the tipping point. Upon reaching a natural pause in the trip, our increasingly growing desire to undertake more technical terrain, dictated the necessity to embrace “less is more”. And “size does matter”. On the dirt, at least. Going forward, my bad habits must be broken. Namely, stockpiling on: clothing, surplus belongings, excessive numbers of bars of soap (don’t ask), and the luxury items that simply aren’t essential, the cowgirl boots.

Meet Mr Jangles, my 2001 Suzuki DR650. Much taller than I’m used to, but what a joy this motorcycle is to take on the dirt. Entering my life during my 36th birthday celebration, our meeting kick-started well: bonding well with him (some big shoes to fill there), around Canmore, Alberta. “Well suck my pants and call me Noreen!” nailed Stephen Fry–he glides effortlessly over gravel, weight shifts like a break dancer and has transformed my off road riding. Behaving like a pup chomping at the bit in the dirt, I couldn’t be happier whizzing my maracas off astride this dandy little DR.Where has this bike been my whole life?

DR650s are mayhaps one of the best kept secrets among long distance moto-travellers. It’s almost child’s play, requiring less input from me, freeing me up to feel free as a bird. And I admit, at around 100 pounds lighter, Mr Jangles is infinitely easier to ride off road than my hefty old Pearl (530 pounds laden with luggage). Jason’s right: I better keep my luggage to an absolute minimum to keep reaping the benefit…

Jason has worked a fair bit on Mr Jangles: upgrading the suspension, adding a bigger Acerbis tank, installing new plastics, rejetting the carburetor, opening up the air box, fitting a lighter exhaust, as well as a Vapour Tech digital display.  More to come: a decent windscreen, cruiser pegs (oh yeah!), bigger hand guard shields, pannier racks for my saddlebags, and a lowered custom seat. We invested in the links to lower the bike although honestly, don’t think I’ll need them–not with the customized seat, luggage and me to lower the bike. What’s more, I’ve never enjoyed awesome ground clearance before, won’t that be novel?


Is that a coat hanger in your mouth?

Pearl (Feb 2014 to Oct 2016):

Time to bathe the bike

My former bike, Pearl, was a 2001 BMW F650GS having been broken in by two previous owners with 27,000 miles on the clock.  Fortunately, I spotted this factory-lowered bike on eBay at the right price so took a chance.  To be honest it looked better in the pictures than in the flesh, but with a few cans of spray paint and three days of hard graft, Jason transformed her from an ugly duckling into a swan.  Oodles of fun to ride although Jason personally finds it a little under powered for his riding style and taste.   Fitted out with Oxford heated grips because the originals had expired, plus a Touratech radiator guard. As well as an additional sump guard over the original belly pan and a set of hard Metal Mule 31 litre panniers, which we swopped for Adventure Spec Magadan MK2 soft saddle bags.

Absolutely, Pearl’s an extremely forgiving motorcycle, a great beginner’s and dual sports bike and I adored her as much as anything else. Fusing like some Greek mythical creature: half woman, half motorcycle…or something like that!


30 thoughts on “The wheelie great team

  1. Good choice the F800GS. I traded my 1150GSA in for an F800GS and am very happy with it. Changed the seat aswell for a Touratech, but haven’t changed the windscreen (yet). Good luck and lots of fun on your trip, Jules


  2. I’m with you on the r1200gsa,love the bike to bit’s for mile munching its the dog’s danglies, but boy is it hard work on the soft stuff !
    Have you fitted bigger fuel tanks ?
    Live the dream,


    • Hi Vernon, thanks for the message – great to hear from you. No, we haven’t fitted bigger fuel tanks but have acquired a couple of extra fuel canisters for peace of mind when going rural for miles on end. Know what you mean about the soft stuff, Jason’s F800GS is not exactly light…hey ho! Cheers Lisa & Jase


  3. I think you’ve chosen well in bikes-I have a GS1200-great bike but a handful off ride.Good luck with your adventure and I look forward to your updates.If I may ask what kind of a daily budget,if any,are you sticking too?


  4. hi guys,looks like you are having a blast , re budget are you camping every night or b and b . I am in the process of planning a trip from uk Alaska and then south to chile , I have ridden around asia for two years , Thailand and Laos , I am looking at buying a BMW gs ,and there lies my dilemma , 1200gs adventure ,great bike but heavy , 800gs adventure great bike ,but runs on tubed tyres , 700gs nice bike, and as you say , most bikes today can do the job , re tubed tyres how do you do repunctures ,do you use slime in the tyres or finilec type foam or just wheel off repairs on roadside ,
    best regards



    • Hey Gary, great to hear from you. Wow, great biking history! Would only say don’t get too bogged down with tyres, no drama to fix them by the roadside when you need to. If you go for tyres with inner tubes, carry a spare for front and back, that way you can quickly replace on the roadside and repair the old one at your leisure. The right bike? That’s very subjective and a toughy. Depends on what kind of riding you want to do, off road and, or tarmac? More of the former, go light and simple, a bike that a bush mechanic can fix. Prefer more road riding then perhaps opt for comfort over trail riding performance. Totally up to you although in our case, we both should’ve gone a lot lighter and smaller. Hey ho, you live and learn! Happy New Year, all the best L&J


  5. Hola , i hear what you say re tyres and bike size , makes you wonder why the 1200gs is so popular .
    Are you guys camping on sites , if so are they ok , or wild camping . Are there b and b type places there ? And approcx cost , hopefully similar prices to Asia

    Best regards and happy new yesr



    • Hi Steve,

      The tyres we are currently using are Heidenau k60’s Really long lasting tyres, Lisa’s front tyre has 15000 miles on it and it’s only half worn. Tyres for our bikes are no problem to source if you don’t mind fitting whats available.


  6. Good feed back, thank you. I too always wanted a 1200GSA. Bought one, love it, but it too will have to go before I set off on the back roads of Africa. As you rightly said, too heavy to pick up, and a handful in the mud and sand. Although, I have just bought a Warn motorcycle winch, will report on its usefulness to pick it up and pull out of the mud etc.


  7. absolutely love ur adventures fatherest I ever road was from phoenix az to stugis south Dakota disabled now sure miss riding used to ride every chance I got (not enough was overroad truckdriver me and wife we ran about 20,000 miles plus a month.


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